You have probably heard me talk about diagonal cutting before and I have made several pants using this technique (see spiral trousers and spiral sweatpants) and a diagonal cut bias dress (see diagonal cut dress). This was something I learnt from my Innovative Pattern Cutting course at Central Saint Martins and later something that I taught as well. However, usually when I make a diagonal cut dress, a silk satin fabric with a stretchy bias is used. I have never used cotton fabric before but decided to give it a try and make something new for my mom to wear mom.
I started out by preparing my mom’s basic block (without shoulder or bust darts in the front bodice block) and from there, manipulated the basic block to get the diagonal pattern.
I noticed that usually when the garment is sewn, the armhole is usually very loose as this is usually due to the characteristic of the bias fabric. To prevent this, I drew in an ingrown cap sleeve but I assumed the Liberty fabric I used helped to keep the shape together as the bias stretch in not that strong. I also inserted a concealed zip on the shoulder so she can get into the blouse.
The amazing thing about this garment is the stretch quality of the garment due to the bias cutting. As I chose quite a busy print, the seams may not be that visible but you can try to spot the seam from the picture below.
I decided to French seam the seams while the raw edges are sewn with bias binding. I calculated that I can sew this blouse easily in about 2 hours mostly because the seams are straight and probably half that time if I didn’t have to use French seam.
My mom really love this blouse, especially the print. She tried it on just now and she looks very beautiful in it.
It’s not only dad that finds her beautiful but me too! Love you mom. xx
Stephen Yong 