Pleated Shorts

When I make something for myself, the idea is to create a look around what I have made or have in my wardrobe. My grand vision is to create a perfect wardrobe where everything is unique but goes well together. I had this idea exactly in mind when I made this pair of short.

I had been noticing the trend of shorts and leggings for quite a while now and love how the bagginess of the shorts and the leggings creates this soft, yet sculpted shapes. I just feel the need to own one of this pair of shorts. I also feel myself slowly being sucked into the ‘all black’ tribe. I do have to admit that sometimes wearing just monochrome colours feels slick but at the same time safe. I still have my colour and print days but recently I’m in a mood for monochrome.

I started out trawling the internet for examples of this look so I can gauge the proportion and style. I knew I wanted something baggy but at the same time, I wanted it to look expensive. I decided that the best way to add volume while maintaining the tailored shorts shape was to add a pleat. I did this by pleating a piece of paper while overlying my front trousers block on top to ensure that the depth of the pleat did not exceed the width of the front trousers block.

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Once the trousers block has been traced on with a tracing wheel, I opened up the pattern and drew the outline of the pattern.

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Seems very easy and it actually is. I did several modification to the original trousers block pattern, namely chopping off the length to the knee and widening the width of the hem. I only added the pleat to the front as I like the way the pleat hides the pocket and the idea of how it opens up when I walk or sit down.

With the pattern done, I then went to bed. Yes. The idea hit me around dinner time and when inspiration strikes, I either need to get it into my book or actually cut it out.

The next morning, all that was left was to cut the fabric out and sew it. I used a gorgeous heavy silk twill fabric I bought from Jim Thompson in Bangkok (for the fraction of the price you would get here in UK).

And here is the outcome. Looks like a normal pair of shorts!

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Until I open the pleating!

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And don’t forget the hidden pocket!

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I couldn’t wait to get it on to see the pleat in action when I walk, sit or just put my hands in the pocket. I even dressed up for the occasion, with leggings of course!

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I actually like how this look goes well with the neoprene jacket I made previously. The pleat sits quite well in the front but it evolves everytime I move.

Seeing how this technique works, I wonder how it would look like on trousers and also what I would get with pleats at the back or with a contrasting colour hidden in the pleats.  Oh well, I will leave this experiment for another day.

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About syvyaw

Eat, sleep and think Fashion.

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