Spring is over but I decided to do some spring cleaning anyway. My efforts were rewarded when I found my old patterns and toiles from my Experimental Pattern Cutting course I did in January 2011. This short course that I did last year actually help spark my interest in creative pattern cutting as before then, I would only work with flat pattern cutting.
My first toile was made using a ‘pillow case’ technique. Two rectangular pieces were cut and sewn together to form a ‘pillow case’. I then draped this on the model and played around with the ‘pillow case’ until I got a shape/detail that was interesting enough for me to continue. The result was the behemoth below.
The sleeve was actually a last-minute thing but I should have left it out as it is too rigid. The back of the toile can be spread out to form ‘wings’.
Or dropped to form, as my friends would call it, ‘shopping bags’.
As this technique starts from 3D and opens up flat to a 2D pattern, the final pattern has no resemblance to normal pattern blocks. This can be seen from the pattern pieces below.
The pattern above forms the front and shoulder piece of the toile and the bottom pattern pieces form the back.
My second toile was done using two ‘tea bag’ pieces attached to a basic bodice block. The manipulation of the ‘tea bag’ pieces resulted in an interesting sleeve detail.
The side view of the sleeve shows overlapping layers created through tucking and folding the ‘tea bag’ pieces.
And as usual, the sleeve pattern does not look like a sleeve pattern when opened up. I sewed this up myself but if this was passed to a technician to be sewn, it needs to be legible, hence the notches, symbols and instructions are really important.
Although an interesting technique, it is also very challenging as you are required to play around with pieces and spot details worth pursing. This can be quite time-consuming but then again when I was locked on to a particular detail, the final results can appear in less than an hour.
This is a very unique technique that I enjoy doing, especially when load music is blaring in the background so I can dance and drape.
Stephen Yong 